Portugal, 2008
Lisboa
About 24 hours after I left
In many neighborhoods, the architecture could never pass for
The city is crammed onto hills and surrounded by water, so coming over the crest of a steep hill and seeing the water from between the buildings affords obvious opportunities for parallels. The corker, though, had to be approaching the bridge. Quite the same feeling as approaching th
Miguel, who was giving us the Cook's tour on the way in from the airport, wanted to show us where the once-bustling warehouses had been turned into trendy restaurants and bars. I was stunned to see how it was was the embarcadero all over! The similarity was palpable.
From one point, it's like the GGB, from another, it's like the
Lisboa, March 10, 2008
Another way that
Ways in which it differs from
There is still a lot of the medieval city around the old castle but the heart of the old city is spacious 18th century more-or-less baroque architecture. Here, the boulevards are wide and straight and the plazas are spacious. The style is one that one finds all over Europe, from
In the aftermath, the Marques da Pombal was charged with the clean up. He took the opportunity to modernize the destroyed area and the results remain beautiful to this day.
We six panelists enjoyed a nice lunch of cad and potatoes (prepared very differently than last night’s cod and potatoes) accompanied by THREE BOTTLES of wine, all already uncorked! Now, no one had more than a modest glassful, and I had none (saving my points for sampling the local cuisine) but imagine expecting people to work all afternoon with half a bottle of wine in their bellies. We were expected to partake, as evidenced by the fact that we were provided three glasses each (one for the red, one for the white, and one for water). Ah,
Tonight we head off to a seafood restaurant (cod and , , , potatoes maybe?).
If the drizzly weather breaks, I’ll try to snap a few pics to send along.
More anon.
---------------
Just came back from a wonderful dinner. Six of us went to a nearby seafood restaurante, Casa do Piexes (or something like that – I am sure that fish was spelled with an ‘x’ which makes a sound in Portuguese similar to the ‘s’ in pleasure). We ate what the waiter recommended, starting with a delightful salad of squid with chopped onions and cilantro (it was _really_ good – honest!) and some very nice fresh-baked breads. Our host also ordered a lovely vinha verde (‘white’ wine) that went well with the seafood. It was the first wine I’ve had since Christmas, so I went very easy on it, but it was marvelous with the fish.
The main course was rock cod of some sort, grilled, and was absolutely outstanding . Along with that, we had another sort of fish – couldn’t identify the specimen the waiter brought for approval before passing it along to the chef, but I swear to goodness that it tasted like salt-cod. It was amazingly salty, but tasty all the same.
We enjoyed animated discussions about science, ranging from there all over the map. The conversation was good fun and quite interesting. Among us are a plant cell biologist, a fellow who studies protein structure by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (MRI, essentially), a chemist/microbiologist, a physicist-turned-plant population-geneticist/ecologist, a cell-cycle specialist who also works in flies, and me.
Thus far, all this takes place in
Not that
Once one leaves the old (post 1755) down town, one comes across many building is a style that I can only call socialist. They look like anything from Soviet Russia, Mao’s
Old bitterness may be passing – one sees a number of Africans on the streets of
Many of the wide Boulevards of Mqe. Pambal’s restoration are lined with what look like mesquite trees and must be acacias – presumably from
Many of the buildings are covered with vibrant tiles sporting intricate patterns. In this climate, it seems, tile is a relatively low-maintenance, highly durable surface for a building. Much paving is similarly tiled. Most of the sidewalks and the like are paved with small, semi-regular squares of rough stone. The somewhat irregular surface provides surprisingly sure traction on a wet day, where larger stones might not. Even some of the 1970’s-era construction at the
More anon.
Whew! We are still hard at it. We had a nice lunch (poultry and rice rather than cod this time.) Again, there was ample wine there but we all passed, being afraid of passing out in the afternoon session.
We wrapped up in
I looked at these pines and thought that for all the world, they looked like loblolly pine Pinus taeda): tall, very spindly, many needle-less older branches, with a full, pointed crown. Turns out that may be what they were. One of the researchers were heard from was doing forest studies and metntioned the loblolly. Also growing in
The
Gotta run, our minivan is waiting.
More anon.
Coimbra-Porto
March 12th, 2008
We had our lunch at the
As I wrote,
The presentation for us was held in an auditorium roofed by groined barrel vaults of plastered limestone. The seating is much more modern, probably dating to the early 20th century – the late 19th at the latest. Despite its antiquity, it is well equipped with an array old Sony speakers and a huge (but low-power, low resolution and thus ‘old’) digital projector. On the stage, a stunning arrangement of fresh flowers awaited us.
Many, but not all, of the female students at
Running right by the old campus is a Roman aqueduct. It has been maintained over the centuries and shows evidence of ‘recent’ restoration (say late 19th century). As we were leaving, I got a snap of it. Then back to the minivan and off to
We reached
I had a tasty serving of baked cod on a bed of a rice-spinach-black-eyed-peas and a bit of pastry/bread. Then it was up to bed. A quick check of my e mail (is there ever such a thing?) and so to bed.
March 13th, 2008
Today we left Porto at 8:15 to head to the Viaro campus of the
Next, we visited the Universidade do Minho, near
LAter, we headed to our hotel in
Another lovely meal for dinner – grilled octopus and cod-potato casserole, preceded by a delicious array of appetizers and accompanied by a fine local vintage.
Then to much-anticipated bed. . .
March 14th, 2008
Today we are back at the U of Minho. At each stop, we have taken the time to speak with the students and postdocs. Unsurprisingly, the concerns they express are just as you’d hear in the
Madeira
March 15th-16th, 2008
I can now say that I’ve been to
We finished our evaluation in
I especially liked one pastry-type-thing filled with savory bits of something. This was followed by grilled octopus , red peppers, onions, and ‘pushed’ potatoes. These latter being just as they sound – take some small red potatoes, bake them with olive oil and herbs and (before or after, I’m not sure which) squash them about half flat. After the fish course, they served us some sort of meat with yellow rice and salad. Of course, there was wonderful local bread and moderate amounts of vinha verde to go with it.
It was quite like being at a very fancy restaurante, especially the service, seeing as we were the only people in the dining room. Very pleasant and relaxed. Afterwards, we repaired to the hotel for more discussion. The hotel had set aside a fancy boardroom for us, but being scientists, we didn’t use it, preferring the anteroom instead. We had our preliminary discussion and then took a stroll around the old downtown of
We went to see the ancient cathedral. It is a combination of old Romanesque and 17th century baroque, with a few pointed arches thrown in for good measure. In preparation for Holy Week, everything was draped in purple. In a tradition one associates more with
Many of the churches and chapels sport massive, gilt and polychrome, ancient organs with arrays of trumpets to accompany the pipes. In the chapel in
We wandered up and down a few streets nearby our hotel, and through the vast main plaza of town where all manner of local handicrafts were on offer. Some of these were attractive. Then, back to the hotel where we resumed our discussion– this time in the bar. At 6:30 PM, we piled into the minivan and drove from
The airport in
As we disembarked from the Fokker 100 we’d taken from
“They must be taking us to another one,” I speculated.
Well, no.
After everyone had filled the vehicle, we drove the thirty yards and unloaded. The gatekeeper at the
Friday, of course, is the start of Easter Week and thus numerous Madeiros studying on the continent were returning home. Apparently, TAP had put on three extra flights to handle the crush so it was not bad at all for us. Food service was a meager sandwich that would please the CFO of any American Airline, but the beverage service includes beer and wine as a matter of course. Few Portuguese, it seems, can tolerate a meal without wine. A civilized people, yes?
The flight from
The airport at Funchal is somewhat smaller than
The
The route from the airport is a modern 4 lane highway that passes through many, large, long tunnels. As I don’t see how the 272,000 residents of the archipelago could afford such lavish construction, I assume it was built with EU or Portuguese money. Once built, on the other hand, it pays for itself in its clear support of the islands’ booming tourism industry. It may well be an example of the rewards of pooling and sharing resources (one thinks of Acts 2:45: “they would sell their property and possessions and divide them among all according to each one's need”). Then too, given the quasi-autocratic state of the regional government, it may just be a boondoggle. In any event, the highway works and Funchal, at least, looks quite prosperous. The drive reminded me of a cross between
We reached the hotel about half-past 1:00. Thankfully, they had a light ham and cheese sandwich and an apple awaiting us in our rooms. That hit the spot and so to bed.
Funchal
March 16th, 2008
Up at 9:00 for a shower in a stall that would be fine on a sailboat. Had the curtain reached the shower pan, I might not have needed three towels to sop up the water from the bathroom floor!
This is a fine season in which to visit
We had a couple of hours before our meeting, so we strolled around the town, along the esplanade, which has its own McDonald’s and Pizza Hut. One chain that doesn’t seem to have made much headway in
We then strolled through the market. A cornucopia of fresh fruit was on display, produce of the island. A local favorite is the custard apple (Annona cherimola). Other offerings included avocados, apples, pears, strawberries, mustard green, broccoli, cabbage, and citrus of all sorts.
Next we passed through the fish market where all the workbenches are of polished marble. Many species of fish I’d never seen, but rock cod as well, were on offer. A local specialty is ‘sword fish’ (peixe espada) {The Portuguese language Wikipaedia suggests the name Trichiurus lepturus for peixe espada. One has to love the web – even here on an island in the
Don’t think of the classic thuniform game fish Xiphias gladius – this one is a fish that looks (more or less) like a sword, not a fish that is armed with one. The sword fish come in white or black, about a metre long, and both look scary as hell. Their shape is reminiscent of a moray or conger eel, but with longer, sharper teeth and huge eyes. One confides that these live at depth. Even really hideous fish may be tasty when eaten.
It was then over to the base station for the funicular lift. This cable-way carries one up from the sub-tropical shore to the temperate mountains, perhaps 500 meters up. Here the laurel is all in bloom, just as it was as on the way from
From the vantage of our gondola, the steep, narrow, winding nature of the streets was unmistakable. Of course, to keep things fascinating, they mostly have steep walls on either side, or a precipitous drop on one side. Basically, there is no flat land on the island and the houses cling to the steep hillsides in ways that would make a
The houses are mostly white and sport red tile roofs. Some are a sort of serrated tile I associate with more northerly climes (and much of the most ancient architecture looks a bit Germanic too – perhaps that reflects the fact it was built in the middle ages?). Most however, would look right at home on the coast of
Once at the top, we found ourselves in a cloudy, cool climate – quite the change from scant minutes before at sea level. Here, the laurels dominate, but ‘maritime’ pine (Pinus pinaster, pinho bravo) and eucalyptus may be seen. Here too are ancient olive trees with trunks perhaps 8 feet in diameter. Owing to centuries of pollarding, however, they are flush with fresh young, fruitful growth that is within easy reach of harvesters. They look quite odd.
Further on, towards the botanic gardens, we come upon a uniquely Madeiran activity: toboggans. These are great wicker baskets with padded seats that are mounted on wooden skids/runners. Owing to the steepness of the ancient, winding streets, one can skid down the nowadays-asphalt road surface at rather high speed. To keep this unorthodox craft under control requires two men – one on either side – to act as breaks using one foot each. They get the thing going by hauling on two ropes as they run down the incline. Then they hop on behind, standing on the rear of the runners. To slow your descent and to steer, they place one foot on the road. Appropriately, there shoes are soled in old tire tread. Elsewise, their attire is traditional: white cotton blouses and trousers, navy blue jackets (as they please) and straw hats shaped like boaters but of lighter weight.
We opted to try the experience. Quite the thrill. The lanes are very steep and also busy. This is done on working roadways, not a ‘closed course with professional drivers.’ In many spots, the road surface is worn shiny-smooth by the passage of these basket toboggans. In all, it is a rather rapid ride down the mountain side. We were nearly back to where we began in much less time than it had taken to ascend in the funicular. While this was certainly fun and now I have done something one can only do on Madeira, were I to find myself back here, I’m not sure I’d feel the need to do it again – perhaps it is like climbing
Our hosts started with an elegant lunch featuring a local favorite, sword fish (see above). Despite their unlovely appearance at the fish market, I dug right in and found it quite good. Potatoes and salad rounded out the main course and a fine flan finished the meal.
Our hosts presented us each with a bottle of
More anon,
Some additional thoughts on the trip so far:
Funny, the only meal at which they served us meat this week was on Friday in
In many places, especially up in the North where there is much dark granite and down on
As a paving surface it is imminently practical – low slip, easy to take up and replace, and easy to transport the little blocks from place to place. Beyond that, it looks nice. I’d like to see more public spaces made attractive in the
While there is a clear and dedicated effort at preservation of the look and feel of Old Portugal, many ultra modern structures abound. Much of the old persists in governance, but that too is continuing to make great strides.
A visit to Europe is a good counterbalance to
Great strides have been made, however, and overall, this visit has been most satisfactory.
After turning in last night, I had a decent night’s sleep. Our flight to the
Airports are airports an
Many of the current procedures are clearly beneficial. Others have been implemented with no data on costs or benefits and it’s regarded as heretical to suggest that the data be gathered to inform our choices. In reality, do the current limitations on liquids, for example, actually achieve their stated objectives? I don’t know. They certainly add a bit of a burden to travelers.
Now, with the eminently reasonable relaxation of rules that says that you may carry on liquids that have been purchased within the secure area of the airport, we have created a new vested interest. Will we ever reassess the costs/benefits of rules if someone’s income depends on the rules as they now are. I won’t even mention the travesty of a private outfit called ‘Clear’ that will get you through the security process much faster, for a small fee. It’s probably coincidental that the security lines for hoi poloi have grown ever more odious at the same time as Clear has been operating at least at SFO.
Air travel remains an amazing benefit. If I were going, in the age of sail, or even steamships, to travel from Dallas to Portugal and then to Madeira and the Azores, with a stop by England coming and going, the journey would be measured in days and months, not hours. And so, we put up with many irritations for the privilege of spending our lives AT places rather than GETTING places. The flip side is so much less leisure, as on this trip
I learned a new term this go round: Macaronesia. Madeira, the Azores, the Canaries, and the
In Plutarch’s story about the Roman Rebel Quintus Sertorius, we are told of sailors who had just come from a pair of islands 1000 furlongs off
When Sertorius heard this account, he was seized with a wonderful passion for these islands, and had an extreme desire to go and live there in peace and quietness, and safe from oppression and unending wars;”}In fact, I meant to mention the island(s) across the way. Ititially, I mistook this for Porto Santo, not recalling the map well. In fact, the islands visible from Funchal are the Islas Desertas (
We had no chance to visit the other large Island of the Madeira group, of course, but the Desertas sit there being strongly reminiscent of
We will have some time to explore Sao Miguel, home to
March 17, 2008
We arrived at the airport here and went straight to the University. By the time we wrapped up our work, it was back to our hotel for a late dinner and then to bed.
A funny thing happened as I was leaving
We rented a car (a Volkswagen ‘Polo’) and spent the day driving around the island. This was well worth while. Once one leaves
We first visited the calderal lake(s) at the North end of the island. The area is spectacularly beautiful and reminds me of
{ I did some looking upon my return. I wasn't completely happy with my tentative identification of the tall Azorean conifers as Juniperus, though the needles and cone looked likely enough. Further digging reveals that the
Seems the genus _Cryptomeria_ is variously placed in the Cuppressaceae or the Taxodiaceae (which are quite similar families anyhow.) Predictably, the photos I have just don't quite resolve the issue.
The mid-elevations of the island are densely forested with them and they are harvested for timber. We shared the narrow, winding road for a nervous moment with a truckload of logs coming down the other way. Not a huge semi or anything, but large all the same. May other trees are members of the Lauraceae or the Oleaceae and hence the name of this sort of forest is Laurasilva. The remnant of the Pleistocene forests that covered a wetter Mediterranean basin 10,000 years ago, the Laurasilva is today found on the Azores, Madeira, and the Canaries, with a bit on the mainland in the mountains of
Azaleas abound, growing wild all over the islands, as do other Rhododendrons. Hydrangeas are everywhere that is not field or pasture, as are what looks like some sort of Canna. Calla lilies are also naturalized here. Other flowers include something that looks a lot like our
And cows! The
The countryside, even steep hillsides, is divided into fields separated by high stone walls. Here, as on
Several times we shared the road with tractors and other farm vehicles, and once with cattle. I saw something on the Azores that I’ve not seen in
We stopped at a lookout point and decided to walk a bit. We followed a steep dirt road up along a ridge for a mile or two. The land fell away sharply to either side of the road, although the Southeastern slope was less steep the nearly cliff-like other slope. It was delightful to get a close look at the flora and some of the fauna, and to breathe air as fresh as I have in quite some time – well, until we came to the cows. We saw a few small song birds, several large hawks (Buteo buteo rothchildii, according to one of the signs at the overlook) and, of course, herring gulls and common terns.
It is an interesting perspective to look down on the lake from the rim of the caldera and realize that one can see the ocean beyond.
Well. It’s nearly half-past 2:00 in the morning.
More anon,
Sao Miguel, Azores
We stopped for lunch in the
We then proceeded to the middle of the island to take a look at Lago do Fogo (
As we progressed around the island, we came across a procession of perhaps 100 barefoot men and boys. Most carried a fancy hiking staff, all wore shawl-like capes and strikingly colorful neckerchiefs. Most also sported large crosses around their necks. They ranged from the very old to the newly-adolescent. It was quite a sight and I was sorry that my camera battery had died by then.
It turns out (we learned from the in-flight magazine) that these pilgrimages are a Sao Miguel tradition dating back to 1522 when an earthquake destroyed the old capital of the islands, Villa Franco do Campo, just down the way from Ponta Delgada. In commemoration, the men of the island made a pilgrimage to plead for the intercession of the virgin. Somehow, the event transmigrated to holy week (the quake was in June). The pilgrimage lasts 8 days and the pilgrims visit every church on the island where there is an image of the Virgin Mary (I guess there must be about 100 of them). They travel around the island clockwise, with the ocean always on their left, and never cross one another’s paths. For the duration of the 250 kilometer trek, they eat and sleep together and, presumably, pray together. By strict tradition, it is a men-only affair. They ask the virgin to intercede in the coming year to ask the Lord to protect the people of the island from the trials of the land (earthquakes, eruptions), the sea, and from the evil in the hearts of men.
The utility of the staffs is self evident, as too the capes and hats. The significance of the neckerchiefs I could not find out – maybe I should Google it. I found the sight quite moving and readily concluded it was a Holy Week procession, but am glad to have learned more details. Another experience unique to the island I was on.
We did take a slight detour to indulge a request of mine. We headed to the rocky shore so that I could dip my foot in the
In addition to the terns and gulls, there was one bird that looked for all the world like a juvenile cattle egret but it was wading right into the waves of the sheltered cove. It was white with a yellow bill and feet. Its fairly long legs, however were black. Made the bird look as though it were wearing yellow shoes!
We returned to
March 19th, 2008
On Tuesday, I finally got a chance to really take a look at
With its commanding situation, the castle has a magnificent view of all of
The old enclosures are unexpectedly empty. This is a result of the interior structures having been wooden rather than stone. There is a reconstructed stable to lend some idea of what the working fortress might have looked like. In any event, the open space is full of old trees (dating to the 19th century, perhaps) pines and olives, mostly.
The masonry is mostly an odd assortment of brick and stones of all sizes. In many structures, only the corners and windows are dressed stone. One can see from the loopholes how the castle was to be defended: each inner precinct has fields of fire on the next one out. Any attempt to storm the structure would have proven most costly to the attackers. Where the stone is dressed, the limestone has weathered to a handsome golden color that contrasts nicely with the green of the pines and olives and the terracotta red of the bricks.
One thing is clear – the original designers of the structure did not have today’s safety guidelines beside them as they worked. The stone parapets are reached by narrow, steep stairways with irregular treads and low railings of rather recent origin. The parapets themselves are likewise without rail or decent wall. A slight stumble on one of those narrow walks could easily send one plunging the 30-40 feet to the ground. That’s another thing that is striking here – the walls are so high! Surely, in the days of its use, it must have been hard on defender and attacker alike.
All-in-all, a magnificent structure and one well worth the visit.
Once I had experienced the castle, I wandered down the hill to the oldest church in
A little after two I caught a cab over to the Faculty of Medicine and Science (they use ‘faculty’ the way we would use ‘school’). My appointment was for three but I wasn’t sure how long it would take to get there. As it happens, it wasn’t too far. Having a bit of time to kill, I wandered around the park that is just across from this imposing late 19th/early 20th century edifice. It is not really neoclassical, nor is beaux arts, though it reminds me a bit of some of the buildings at
The park is full of poultry – ducks (Muscovy?), geese (grey, white), a dozen or so stunning jungle fowl (all roosters, it seems), and a peacock. I’d seen a peacock and hen at the castle too. And a host of pigeons, most looking like genuine Columba livia. At the café I had a meia de laite (something like a cappuccino – literally, a “half of milk.’) and a roll. The Portuguese bread is excellent and varied. I liked all of it.
The park is dominated by a green-end-blue bronze statue of one “Dr. Sousa Martins,’ upon a tall white marble column. I am not sure what his original claim to fame was, but in the century or so since the column was erected, me has become the object of supplication and veneration by countless sufferers. Dr. Matrtins’ current status is that of a medium. Many supplicants, (after successful intervention, one supposes) demonstrate their gratitude for his help by having their thanks engraved on small marble tablet. These are piled around the base of the column to a depth of two or three feet and many are quite recent. Some of these testaments even bear photographs. Judging from the statue, I’d say that these are likely to be one of the person for whom intercession was requested and another of Dr. Martins himself.
Here, unlike in
In
We next headed over to the section of
The church itself is enormous and darker than most gothic structures. I imagine that this building was begun much earlier and only finished in the newer style. It seems a lot, perhaps most, of the churches in
The columns and piers that support the ribbed vaulting of the ceiling are themselves ornately carved and statuary niches abound, though statues, for some reason, don’t. Almost all are empty. Here too is a venerable pipe-and-trumpet organ, but behind the alter rather than at the entrance to the nave.
Unlike most of the Gothic churches that I can recall, this ceiling is at one level. The side aisles are no different in height than the main aisle and there is no upper story with an ambulatory. Of course, this unusual choice for a Gothic church may be owing to the fact that the main walls were already to go when they decided on Maritime Gothic and are thus massive with few windows – quite unlike the High Gothic I love so well, with its paper-thin curtains of stone.
The cloister is another awesome sight. It’s not a style that I’d want for my own home, but it’s an impressive structure just the same. The same attention to decoration is given here as elsewhere in the monastery. The cloister is two stories tall and on three sides the back walls of the arcades are pierced by low black doors set into elegantly-carved doorways. These lead to the monks’ cells (I believe the monastery is still in use and it looked as if some of the cells were.)
One cell was open so that we could inspect it. ‘Cell’ doesn’t begin to do it justice. I remember seeing Father Serra’s cell at
We then strolled a few blocks to the
We then stopped at the famous Paistes de Belem, a café dating back to the 19 century for a famous local delicacy – egg custard in a flaky crust. We had ours with lemon tea – an excellent, and uniquely Lisboan, experience. As with many restaurants with a well known specialty, the service was the polar opposite of what was served to us. The pastries were delightful all the same.
Before deciding on where to go for dinner, we swung by a local shopping mall. Malls are malls – the names of the banks, shoe stores, and jewelers may change but the look and feel does not. This, even though the mall is housed in the shells of some old buildings. Apparently, a whole historical block or so of old
For dinner, we chose ‘the oldest and most beautiful beer house in Potugal.’ About the same time that Bowie and Crockett were standing with Travis and 180 others down in San Antone, the original proprietors were converting a medieval monastery into a brewery. Two years later, in 1838, they began table service and have kept it up, through several changes in ownership, ever since.
Inside the old main hall is lined with heavily decorated tiles depicting as semi-draped human forms notions such as Earth, Water, Wind, and Fire on one wall and the four seasons on the other. In between the figures are the faces of rather rakish looking lions. All of these are depicted in a slightly primitive manner in delft blue, an ocher-ish yellow, and a rose-madder-like red. One must look for a moment to realize that only three colors are employed.
For dinner, we started off with large prawns accompanied by another local invertebrate. My host had warned me he wanted me to try ‘something weird’ but he couldn’t recall the English name – he suggested limpet. I allowed as how I’ll try anything edible once (well, almost anything – I won’t eat brains, for example.) When the dish arrived I recognized the unknown items as gooseneck barnacles. In truth, though they look rather ugly (and hey, what shellfish doesn’t, when you stop to consider?) they had a flavor of crab, though very salty.
For the main course, I had a traditional ‘cervejaria’ style steak – different from the Azorean fare, but every bit as tasty. Having gone for the barnacles, I opted to shy away from another suggestion: another local specialty called Asorda. This last is a selection of seafood in a sort of stew, served all mixed up with bred until it has the consistency of oatmeal. Well, like the barnacles, it may not be much to look at but it was certainly tasty (again, somewhat salty, though).
That wrapped up my journey to
The
Once Flt 67 from Heathrow to DFW via O’Hare landed there, I walked a mile or so to get to customs – more waiting, more lines. Customs is reasonably efficient but they have so much more to do these days and so many more folks to serve. At baggage claim a helpful young American Airlines employee called out several names to let us know our bags wouldn’t be arriving. Great! Nothing to declare. He was able to tell us what flights the bas were on and when we might expect them. Hey, if your bag has to be late, the last leg home is the time for it. Then to the recheck counter (no waiting!) and to the gate. After all that, I got there just as Flt 67 was boarding. Imagine If I had missed the flight I came in on! It could happen to you!
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